5am. Early wake-up call. Nothing screams adventure quite like a pre-dawn alarm.
The groggy excitement set in as I headed to the airport for my 7.25am flight from Manchester to Gothenburg. By 11am, I was reunited with my boyfriend, who greeted me at Landvetter with tales of his week-long fishing trip in the region, and the promise of a picturesque Swedish escape.
Our first stop: breakfast at his friend’s rustic lakeside cabin in Mölnlyke where he had spent the week, a tranquil prelude before diving into the heart of Gothenburg.
Perched on Sweden’s west coast at the gateway of its namesake archipelago, Gothenburg captures the essence of both rustic charm and modern sophistication. I’d heard whispers that for those yearning for a breath of refreshing Scandinavian air, but preferring a slower pace than Stockholm’s bustling vibe, Gothenburg is the place to visit.
Hugging Sweden’s scenic southwestern coast, this vibrant port city has long been celebrated for its ethical fashion shops, renewable energy programmes, low-impact architecture projects, and pioneering recycling schemes. According to the Global Destination Sustainability Index, Gothenburg holds the title of the world’s most sustainable city, with over half of its public transport energy coming from renewable sources and all meat served within the city being organically raised.
Gothenburg City Centre
Often overshadowed by its more famous sibling, Gothenburg may be a pocket-sized metropolis, but alongside its sustainability credentials it also boasts hip up-and-coming neighbourhoods, Michelin-starred restaurants and a vibrant cultural mix you’d expect from much larger cities. Its cool inner-city vibe, brimming with independent fashion, cosy cafés and diverse restaurants, intertwines seamlessly with the classic Scandinavian ethos of green and ecological living.
The compact nature of the city means that almost everything is within walking distance, making it easy to explore Gothenburg’s many gems at a leisurely pace, although there is also an extensive tram network, with many running on grass-lined tracks.
On a wonderfully warm day, while I’d planned to spend the early afternoon mooching around the design-led stores I’d bookmarked on Google, we instead decided to grab an iced coffee – or, in my case, an espresso tonic – from Da Matteo (widely touted as the best place for coffee in the city), and head off in search of greenery.
Kungsparken & Bältesspännarparken
We didn’t have to go far. Kungsparken, also known as King’s Park, stretches like an emerald ribbon for 1.5 km along the city’s central canal. Its lush grass and majestic trees offer a serene haven amidst the urban hustle and bustle—and it’s an incredibly popular picnicking spot for locals.
Lively chatter from the passing canal boat tours and bustling pedestrian shopping streets across the canal weave a vibrant tapestry of city sounds, creating a dynamic backdrop to this peaceful retreat. Every now and then, the tranquility is punctuated by a wave of noise from Gamla Ullevi stadium, where the local derby was playing out.
Adjacent to Kungsparken is the small but charming Bältesspännarparken. Here, we sat on the grass, soaking in the view of the fountain and the impressive Stora Teatern across the street, thronged with crowds enjoying the outdoor bar on this sunny day.
The Garden Society of Gothenburg sits just across the street, with wide winding paths through verdant lawns and vibrant blooms. In the heart of the park stands the Palmhouse, a glittering edifice of glass and cast iron, modelled on the Crystal Palace that housed the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London—close to where I grew up.
I’m always drawn to the tropical allure of a Palmhouse, so it was a bitter disappointment to discover we’d arrived just ten minutes before it closed (at 4pm on a Saturday). We were able to step inside briefly and marvel at the array of exotic plants, but our time was too short to fully explore the five sections of the Palmhouse, each promising to provide a rich overview of exotic plants from around the world, as well as a captivating glimpse of the previous century’s sense of style, in stark contrast to our own.
We left the park and crossed back over the canal into the town centre, finding ourselves straight back in the heart of things at the city’s Central Station. This imposing and majestic edifice—the oldest railway station in Sweden still in use—stands as a testament to the city’s rich history.
We then sauntered our way down Kungsgatan, a bustling shopping street lined with quintessentially Scandinavian high street fashion brands like H&M, Arket, Weekday, Monki, and &Other Stories. Our next stop was a leisurely exploration of the luxury department store, Nordiska Kompaniet (NK). Here, we were greeted by a delightful mix of brands, all curated with a keen eye for design and quality.
As evening slowly descended, Gothenburg continued to turn up the charm.
The edgy district of Magasinsgata, packed full of eclectic bars, offered the perfect spot for a relaxing drink, and I wanted nothing more than to grab a glass, sit outside and soak in the serene Scandinavian lifestyle, watching the beautiful people stroll by.
Instead, we had a dinner date planned with friends across town and, as we jumped in the car to make our way over, threathening dark and stormy clouds began to gather. The gorgeous sunshine of the day had dissipated, and a couple of days of erratic unpredictability loomed…
We had checked into our rental apartment under the cover of night, so waking up on Sunday morning and pulling back the curtains to unveil our first glimpse of the tranquil lake of Aspen was nothing short of magical. Situated 22km outside of Gothenburg, this hidden gem was a sight for sore eyes.
Our cosy 30 sqm studio apartment, tucked away in the basement of a house, offered a perfect blend of seclusion and a deep connection with nature. The first thing that grabbed my attention was a luxurious freestanding bathtub positioned right in the middle of the living room. Instantly, visions of a pampering evening danced in my head—soaking in a warm bubble bath, gazing out at the serene lake—pure, unadulterated bliss!
Even more impressive was the private sauna, crafted from natural blackstone and Swedish asp wood, with a stunning view of the lake right through the living room. This feature, along with the fully equipped kitchen and bathroom, added a comforting sense of home—precisely what we had hoped for. We had plans to whip up our dinners ‘at home,’ savouring the beautiful views and tranquil ambience of our lakeside retreat, rather than venturing out to eat every night.
Höno & Öckerö
The forecast for Sunday was bright in the morning and variable all afternoon, so we wanted to take advantage of the early sunshine and explore a little further afield than Gothenburg town centre. We drove over to Lilla Varholmen to catch the ferry—part of the Gothenburg public transport system and free of charge—over to Hönö, the gateway to the municipality of Öckerö, which comprises ten inhabited islands and offers a rich tapestry of west coast idyll.
The journey lasts around 15 minutes and you can leave your car and head up to the upper deck to enjoy the view as you go, passing picturesque Swedish coastlines peppered with charming cottages, rugged rocks, and the occasional church spire. There were plenty of others out on the water that morning too; we passed sailboats, motorboats—even an earnest canoeist!
We disembarked and headed first for the island of Öckerö, connected via bridge to Hönö. We had no real plan other than to drive and stop at places that caught our eye; the first being the port of Öckerö, where we were lured in by the rows of moored boats and traditional fisherman’s huts lining the waterfront—and the need to pick up a bottle of something icy cold and refreshing at Henry’s Kiosk next door.
As a descendent of a long line of Aberdeenshire fishermen, I find there’s something profoundly captivating about being beside the sea, surrounded by boats that whisper tales of adventure, freedom, and exploration. The salty tang of the sea air, the gentle rocking of the boats, and the distant cries of seabirds all combine to evoke a sense of wanderlust and serenity in me. It’s also a reminder of the vastness of the world and the endless possibilities that lie beyond the horizon.
As we continued deeper into Öckerö, the coast on the other side of the island was calling our name. We went in search of ‘the beach’ (thank you, Google Maps), which turned out to be a charming swimming basin. We arrived just as dark clouds began to gather overhead, and in the distance, we could see heavy shafts of rain falling on the north of the island. It was deeply captivating to watch until a dramatic fork of lightning lit up the sky, sending us scampering back to the car as intermittent heavy droplets began to fall around us.
Our stomachs told us now would be a good time to stop for lunch, so we headed in the direction of Klåva, the heart of Hönö, whilst trying to outrun the approaching rainstorm. We arrived just before the storm, but in our struggle to find a parking spot alongside the harbour, it caught up to us, and we had to wait out the worst of the pelting rain in the car.
As the downpour slowly subsided, we donned our raincoats and ran for the nearest bar, which, happily, was Franses Skärgårdspub & Bistro. The perfect spot to wait out the storm and indulge in a delicious meal, we were delighted to discover this charming and rustic spot had an equally wonderful menu to boot, including a classic Swedish shrimp sandwich served on local Hönö bread, which sounded like it would hit the spot. It did that and more, as we were brought two open sandwiches piled high with the biggest mountain of shrimp I’ve ever seen, on soft white pricked bread that tasted fresh and fluffy, and ever so slightly sweet.
Such a simple yet utterly delicious dish; I would heartily recommend!
The rainclouds were still hanging ominously in the sky as we left, despite the sun doing its best to filter through, so we took a quick spin around the bustling harbour area, home to several independent fashion boutiques, arts and crafts shops, and a lovely—and very popular—Cederleüfs & Svenheimers Bageri och Konditori.
The overhanging clouds had dramatically dropped the temperature, so we decided the best course of action was to retreat back to the mainland and find an indoor activity to occupy the rest of the afternoon. Our destination? IKEA, of course! You know my affinity for a good mooch around IKEA, haha.
The Swedish stores are leaps and bounds nicer than the ones in the UK (or perhaps it’s just our local branch), and the one in Kållered has recently been relocated to a brand new, purpose-built venue. My boyfriend, having visited a few times already, was eager for me to see it. We spent a good few hours wandering through the room sets, admiring the impeccable styling, and swooning over the—frankly, quite beautiful—restaurant area (you can catch more of this in my YouTube video).
Lerum
The sunshine had returned by morning, so we decided to spend some time exploring around Aspen Lake, close to where we were staying. Spotting a botanical garden on the banks of the lake, we discovered that it marked the beginning of a 3.6km greenhouse loop following the Säveåpromenade through the lush Säveån valley.
The Växtrum “greenhouses” are a collection of eleven unique gardens, transformed by some of Sweden’s top garden designers into inspiring and engaging growing spaces. We only had time that morning to explore the two closest gardens to the lake—Solens Öga (Sun’s Eye) and Aluddengläntan—but they provided a wonderfully contemplative and tranquil start to our day.
Aluddengläntan was one of the first Växtrum gardens to take shape, brought to life by Hannu Sarenström and his team. The garden features gently curving beds of flowers that bloom year-round, exuding simple charm and tranquillity. Close by, Solens Öga garden is a round, beautifully symmetrical space encircled by low larch wood benches with a charming curved design. The garden is swathed in wispy grasses and vibrant flowers, creating an inviting spot. It was just the kind of place where I could have spent hours reading, soaking in the calm and peaceful atmosphere of the lakeside, with the gentle sound of birdsong providing a soothing soundtrack.
As the minutes slipped away on our final day in Gothenburg, we headed back into the city centre to delve deeper into the cobbled streets and trendy boutiques. We started our journey beside the Gothenburg Opera House at Lilla Bommen harbour.
A distinctive 22-floor post-modern building stood proudly nearby, housing office, networking, and restaurant spaces, and I was tickled to discover that it’s commonly referred to by locals as Läppstiftet (The Lipstick)—I thought it was only Londoners who gave their new skyscrapers quirky nicknames! We also spied a couple of houseboats available as Airbnb rentals, which would certainly make for charmingly quaint places to stay—although a little less picturesque than our lakeside apartment.
We then moved back towards the main shopping avenues to tick off some of the many fashion boutiques and design stores I had marked on my Google Maps (does anyone else do extensive planning like this before visiting a new city? So many shops to visit, so many places to caffeinate!), before heading over to explore Haga, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Gothenburg, most famous for its abundance of fika cafés.
Below are some of the best spots I had on my list:
Cool places to shop in Gothenburg.
Marimekko: A favourite of mine since I first set foot in the brand’s flagship store in Helsinki over a decade ago. Seeing this season’s breezy dresses, charmingly quirky printed co-ords, and plissé skirts up close was a delight. Each piece combines playful femininity with pragmatic style, embodying the bold, retro patterns that make Marimekko a perennial favourite. My latest obsession? The candy wrapper-inspired Pukku Karla shoulder bag, especially in the striped versions, which brings a whimsical touch to the classic Scandinavian aesthetic.
→Marimekko, Korsgatan 15, 411 16 Göteborg
Samsøe Samsøe: A perennial favourite of mine whenever I’m shopping in Europe, Samsøe Samsøe embodies Scandinavian cool with its ready-to-wear fashion, blending street fashion with Nordic practicality, offering versatile, chic pieces. The understated elegance of their designs transforms everyday wear into something special, a true testament to their ability to combine comfort and style seamlessly.
→Samsøe Samsøe, Södra Larmgatan 13, 411 16 Göteborg
Nudie Jeans: One of Gothenburg’s most famous fashion brands, Nudie Jeans are designed to be worn intensively, beaten up, repaired, and cherished for years on end. When the brand was formed in 2001, words like ‘fairtrade’, ‘responsible consumerism’, and ‘organic’ were not yet the design buzzwords they are today. Driven to expose the ‘naked truth’ about denim, Nudie Jeans came into being—a denim brand for the fashion-savvy that focuses on the quality and longevity of their products. Specialising in raw and prewashed denim jeans, the company’s collection also includes a variety of casual clothing and accessories, each piece crafted with the same ethos of sustainability and durability.
→Nudie Jeans Repair Shop, Södra Larmgatan 12, 411 16 Göteborg
Grandpa: A gem I first discovered through Scandi blogs in the 2010s and had been eager to visit ever since. As one of the first of the new breed of concept lifestyle stores, Grandpa aims to create a positive change towards a more sustainable society with a carefully selected range of fashion and lifestyle items, featuring timeless designs, high durability, and stringent demands for sustainable manufacturing. They also had an adorable shop dog, who was eager to play—and let’s be honest, who can resist the charm of a big-eyed, floppy-eared sales assistant with a waggly tail?
→Grandpa, Vallgatan 3, 411 16 Göteborg
APLACE: Not a store I had on my list, but instead, one I stumbled upon across the road from Grandpa. APLACE was founded in 2007, transforming from a magazine showcasing progressive Scandinavian fashion into a haven for over 50 renowned fashion brands and up-and-coming local designers. Gothenburgers have a deep affection for thrift shopping, and I noticed an abundance of second-hand shops scattered throughout the city. APLACE itself boasts an impressive second-hand section, featuring many high-end brands. My boyfriend, ever the keen-eyed shopper, picked out a gorgeous black handbag for me from the thrift rail. To our delight, it turned out to be the Hedda Grande* from Stockholm brand Flattered—a current season piece at less than half the price! Even better, he bought it for me ♥
→APLACE, Magasinsgatan 20, 411 18 Göteborg
Artilleriet: With a discerning eye for style, the curatorial store Artilleriet boasts an eclectic collection of interior pieces, furniture and intricate details, and was one of the stores I was most excited to visit. Seamlessly blending youthful exuberance with established elegance, alongside their Kitchen Studio around the corner, Artilleriet spans the spectrum, offering everything from furnishings and handwoven rugs to ceramics and the finest selection of design books. In their main store on Magasinsgatan I found myself oohing and aahing over every roomset, desperately wishing I had the funds (and the home) to furnish in such exquisite style.
→Artilleriet, Magasinsgatan 19, 411 18 Göteborg
Rum för Papper: Located in Victoriapassagen, a 19th-century passage that stretches between Vallgatan and Södra Larmgatan, Rum för Papper is a veritable haven for paper and craft enthusiasts. The store is stocked to the brim with arts materials, notepads, journals, sketchbooks, and pens. Stationery shops always evoke a sense of nostalgia for me, and Rum för Papper is precisely the kind of store where I can lose hours browsing. Emerging with a bag full of treasures, I feel inspired to become more organised, more creative, and more aligned with my artistic aspirations.
→Rum för Papper, Victoriapassagen, Vallgatan 19, 411 16 Göteborg
Tell Me More: An interior company based in Haga that designs and manufactures its own collections of home decor, hemp rugs, porcelain, and textiles, Tell Me More draws inspiration from nature, where a Scandinavian style sets the framework. Craftsmanship plays a central role, and the brand collaborates with locally skilled artisans around the world, creating new products based on their natural colour palette, which endures year after year. I loved everything they had in store and couldn’t leave emptyhanded, picking up a ‘Voyager’ scented candle, with energising citrus notes balanced with underlying spiciness to capture the ‘spirit of a voyager, journeying through new horizons and continents.’
→Tell Me More, Haga Nygata 29, 413 01 Göteborg
We only had three days in Gothenburg (and planned to eat dinners at the apartment), so didn’t get the chance to even scratch the surface of the restaurants, coffee shops and bars I’d had on my Google Map, but here are some of the places we either popped our heads into, or actually stopped to eat, and can therefore heartily recommend…
Some lovely places to eat in Gothenburg:
Fiskbar17: Tucked away in the cosy Magasinsgatan square, between Grandpa and Artilleriet, we came across this charming seafood restaurant that seemed incredibly popular with the locals. Serving just two seafood lunch options, we took it as a good sign they would be of the best quality, and they were! We both opted for the herb-baked haddock, served with potatoes, radish, and greens (the other option was a fish soup and a hunk of Swedish bread), and a crisp glass of white wine—exactly what we needed. It was the perfect trifecta: good food, good wine, and surprisingly good weather. The setting was ideal for people watching. In that moment, what more could I ask for?
→Fiskbar17, Magasinsgatan 17, 411 18 Göteborg
The Market Hall: Gothenburg’s most historic food hall, housed in a grand old building with a distinctive arched roof of copper and glass, lets light flood into the bustling interior. Come here to browse the 40 or so stalls, and buy cheese, fish, meat and vegetables to take away, or better yet, perch at a counter and eat amid all the market’s lively bustle. It’s one of the most popular spots for Gothenburgers to grab a quick bite, pick up food for dinner, or plan a picnic—and it’s handily located right next to a bridge leading to Kungsparken!
→The Market Hall, Kungstorget, 411 17 Göteborg
Da Matteo: Now with five outposts in the city, we visited the original Da Matteo café in the charming Victoriapassagen, where founder Matts Johansson started his coffee journey in 1995. They’ve done much to set the scene for quality coffee in Sweden since then, helping to pioneer the larger Scandinavian coffee zeitgeist that has been so influential across the globe. Their café was cosy and welcoming, with bustling courtyard seating on this warm summer day. The temperature meant we both opted for iced coffees—americano for him, espresso tonic for me—but we couldn’t resist the call of traditional Swedish cardamom buns (kardemummabullar) to enjoy alongside. Fika is, of course, a concept, a state of mind, an attitude, and a very important part of Swedish culture.
→Da Matteo, Victoriapassagen, Södra Larmgatan 14, 411 16 Göteborg
Berzelii Choklad: This charming chocolate haven caught my eye with its minimalist branding and stylish exterior. However, it was their exquisite chocolates, truffles, and homemade sweets that truly captured my attention. Described as a ‘city centre hot spot for chocolate lovers,’ I’m kicking myself for not picking up some of their handmade pralines to enjoy back at our apartment later—and I implore you not to make the same foolish mistake when you’re in town!
→Berzelii Choklad, Magasinsgatan 12, 411 15 Göteborg
Café Husaren: The self-proclaimed ‘home of hagabullen,’ Café Husaren is one of Gothenburg’s most beloved cafes. Housed within one of the Haga neighbourhood’s typical light brick buildings, dating back to the 19th century, the coffee house proudly serves hagabullen the size of dinner plates. Unique to this particular area of Gothenburg, hagabullen is a twist on the classic Swedish cinnamon bun, infamous mainly for its enormous size and crystals of sweet, crunchy sugar. We sought refuge here from a sudden rain shower and decided to share one, not believing for a moment we’d be able to finish it. We did, however, manage far more than I’d expected; it was surprisingly light and moreish—especially when washed down with a strong cup of coffee!
→Café Husaren, Haga Nygata 28, 411 22 Göteborg
Feskekörka: Since 1874, Feskekörka (the fish church) has been a mecca for seafood lovers and architecture enthusiasts alike. This indoor fish market is a marvel, both inside and out. Its name derives from its architectural style, with pointed arched windows and a design free from partitions or pillars – it quite simply looks like a church! The sales counters on either side of the market hall boast an abundant array of freshly caught fish, shellfish and crustaceans, as well as prepared dishes and ready-to-eat snacks. On the gable sides, mezzanine-level fish restaurants offer delectable dishes that can also be enjoyed in the outdoor seating area, with a splendid view of the adjacent Rosenlunds Canal on fine days. We didn’t have the chance to dine here on this trip, but mark my words, it’ll be our first stop on our next visit!
→Feskekörka, Fisktorget 4, 411 20 Göteborg
And that was that! A very quick, whistlestop tour of Gothenburg that affirmed the fact we would need to plan a return visit really soon.
Most of the photos in this post were actually snapped by my boyfriend, since I was too busy filming scenes for my new YouTube channel instead. If you’ve made it this far and are interested in seeing a little silent travel vlog from our trip—tada—click below!
Have you visited Gothenburg before? Or have I inspired you to add the city to your travel bucket list?
Let me know in the comments below… xx
All photography © Kate Baxter & Luis Leiva
One Response
It looks so lovely!
Danielle Writes | danielle-writes.co.uk